OPINION: Wrapped in history- the evolution of the coat

By Li Li Schoenfelder

  As we head into colder weather, it’s worth remembering that before puffer jackets dominated mainstream fashion and trenches and peacoats flooded Pinterest, there was one universal truth: people were cold, and they needed a stylish coat to look good while staying warm.  

Medieval Cloaks – Status by the Yard:  

In the Middle Ages, a coat was not just a means to stay warm – it was armor and a declaration of wealth and power. The wealthy draped themselves in wool capes trimmed with fur up to their necks, while peasants shivered in plain, scratchy wool. Think of it as Game of Thrones couture. Medieval Europe was perfecting the “Winterfell aesthetic” long before HBO. The longer your cloak, the higher your status. It wasn’t just survival of the fittest; it was survival of the most fashionable.  

Renaissance Royalty – Drama and Decadence: 

While the Middle Ages were about survival, the Renaissance was about showing off. Royals and nobles wore opulent fabrics like velvet and silk. Coats and overgarments were lined with fur, gold-threaded embroidery, and even jewels. Most commoners wore simple wool coats, often with earthy tones made from natural dyes; bright colors like rich blues and purples were far beyond their budgets. For most, coats were made to withstand weather and work – nothing more, nothing less.  

The Utility Jacket – Style in Wartime:  

Fast forward to the 1940s and World War II and everything about coats changed. With fabric rationing, silhouettes became shorter, boxier, and more utilitarian. Shoulder pads created sharp outlines, and military-inspired trenches became iconic in history and in fashion.  

Cashmere Dreams – Fashion in the Fifties:  

In the 1950s, after WWII, the economy was booming and so was the fashion industry. Women wore swing coats, made from cashmere, felt, and buttery velvets. Fun pastels and plaids took over the department store racks. Oversized buttons became a need, along with silhouettes so boxy and voluminous they practically floated. These roomy A-line coats weren’t just fashion, but function – after the war the Baby Boom era began, and maternity wear took priority. These silhouettes offered women comfort and elegance while navigating motherhood.  

Puffers and Parkas – The Coats of Today:  

Today’s sidewalks contain hundreds and thousands of different coat shapes, styles, colors, and prints. From the leather jacket to the denim jacket, to the puffer, everyone has a different style and a different coat. Social media trends, celebrity style, and new technologies make outerwear one of the most expensive parts of a wardrobe. Each coat we wear is shaped by culture, history, and individual personality. No matter the century, fashion has always risen to the occasion, even when the temperatures have fallen.